Metal Pipe Boot Removal with Sean
Sean walks us through a metal pipe boot removal and replacement.
Water was leaking through the roof for this homeowner and the cause of the leak was from these pipe boots.
These metal pipe boots were incorrectly installed on this metal roof.
Sean will go through how to remove them, install z-bar plates, and install pipe boots the correct way.
Explanation: Beginning – 1:23
Removal of the metal pipe boots: 1:24 – 7:24
Z-bar measuring: 7:25 – 17:01
Installation of Z-bar: 17:02 – 25:47
Metal plate installation: 25:48 – 37:31
Metal pipe boot installation: 37:32 – end
Transcript of the removal and replacement process
Today, we’re gonna be looking at these metal roof pipe boots. These two right here were installed incorrectly.
Whenever the rib lines up with a pipe, of course, we need to cut out that rib
and cut out a circle from the metal panel. But when we do that, we actually need to install Z-Bar
in a diamond plate pattern, and what that does, it helps tread water
and we’ll have a flat piece of metal that locks onto that Z-Bar and that’ll give our pipe boot
a nice, flush surface to lay down to, and then we’re gonna screw that pipe boot off every inch.
Everything we do today is per manufacturer specs, and we’re gonna start by removing these two.
We’re gonna remove the caulk and we’re gonna remove as much mastic tape as we can.
(power tool whirring)
Removal of the metal pipe boots
Always pocket your cutoffs, your scraps, your screws, your nails. Put ’em in your pouch when you’re on the roof.
Keep you from cleaning up later. You can scratch this roof all to pieces. So definitely be mindful of pocketing
all your trash and screws. We’ll just go ahead and pull this.
Look at that water coming out.
Yeah, that thing’s crazy wet. Yeah, it was definitely leaking before.
These pipes, they don’t mend too easily in this area here.
And then, you know, right here and right here, they’re not meant to do a 45-degree turn.
You can use these with the screw-down metal roofing because it’s corrugated.
It’s about 22 and a half degree bends. It’s just not much of a hard turn on the boot.
That’s why with screw-down, you see these just laying over ribs. But with snap lock, we can’t do that because of this reason.
That tight bend right there. These boots are just not meant to make that.
And this part above here, on top, there might be mastic tape on it,
but it’s not gonna squeeze in to this little void right through here.
So when it does rain, it’s just gonna bypass that mastic tape and fill in both sides eventually.
All right. Yeah, the thing’s, it’s been leaking.
You see all that water in there and it’s filling up right where we were just talking about.
Do go ahead and discard this.
Pull away all this old caulk. That’s gonna get in the way of the seal of the new one.
Oh yeah. Yeah.
All right, so that’s one. That’s pretty good. We’ll probably get a little bit more of this caulk off.
The more you get off around this pipe, the better ’cause the new pipe boot
is gonna sit tight and flush to the PVC. And if that pipe boot sits on that caulk,
it’s gonna have voids that water can leak into. We’ll see if water comes out of this one. (power tool whirring)
Yeah, you saw how much came out of there. That was decent amount. (power tool whirring)
Pocket your screws again. Pull it on up.
Yeah, same thing again. – [Man] More water? – Yep.
– [Man] Yep. – Yep.
Yep. Same thing again.
You could see the water around this side pretty well.
We’ll go ahead and clean this caulk up as well. Get as much as we can out the way.
There we go.
All right. Now the next part is measuring for Z-Bar.
And what we’re gonna do is take a measurement of what the old pipe was,
compared with the new pipe. It’s looking like that boot was about seven inches wide.
So we know that we need to make that flat piece of metal, a minimum 9-10 inches.
That way, when we put the boot down, it doesn’t hang over that piece of metal that will lock onto the Z-Bar.
One thing you gotta watch with this is these pipes are pretty close to one another.
And when the Z-Bar comes down, say we go with, say nine inches.
We’ll go from right here, at a 45-degree angle, and see where nine inches lands.
So it’s about right here. And what we wanna ensure is that when these two pieces of Z-Bar come down,
there’s a gap in between ’em to let water flow past it. So right now I think that I’m gonna go with nine inches
on the Z-Bar. So I’ll cut one, two, three,
four pieces of Z-Bar. And I’ll go ahead and cut one, two, three, four for this one.
So eight pieces at nine-inch. One of those pieces,
I’ll cut it about an inch longer and that’s just in case I wanna fold the flange around.
I don’t want, where they meet, I don’t wanna open and I might wanna fold that around it. So we’ll go down to the ground,
we’ll cut all our pieces of Z-Bar, and we’ll go ahead and make a diamond plate
out of a piece of metal. We’ll cut one, two of those and show you the whole install process.
So I’m down on the ground. I brought out a couple pieces of Z-Bar. This is what we’re gonna use to basically build out
the pipe to make the diamond plate pattern. So what I’m gonna do is cut out four nine-inch pieces.
One or two of those pieces I might cut a little bit longer just in case I need some play on that.
So I’ll just go ahead and… – So can I ask you a question? – Yeah. – [Man] Why a Z-Bar?
– Why Z bar? – [Man] Why not different piece of metal? – Yeah.
All right, so Z-Bar works for ridge,
hips, transitions, side wall, end wall. It works in conjunction with all those pieces.
The best thing about it, it’s concealed-fastened, which means you’re not gonna see any screws
on the outside of this at all. What we’ll do is, before this gets applied to the roof line,
we’ll take mastic tape, also butyl tape, and apply that to the bottom.
And all the screws that go into the roof are gonna sit behind right behind that butyl tape.
That way, if a driving rain blows up onto this, it’s not gonna go past it.
So that’s the main purpose for Z-Bar, and the real reason we’re gonna use this around the pipe
is the height right here, from the bottom of the nailer to the top,
where the piece of metal locks onto it, is an eighth inch higher than the ribs.
If we went flush to the metal panel, flush to each of the panels, we couldn’t get a good seal.
We wanna get this above the roof and nice and even. So we’ll go ahead and cut this down
into the four lengths we need and get some mastic tape applied to the bottom of it.
– [Man] I know Sean does. – I do. – [Man] Sean, which one do you buy?
– [Sean] Whatever’s free. – [Man] I got four of ’em. – Yeah, what? One thing about the Z-Bar,
once you got your pieces marked out, I have one, two, three, four pieces I need to cut.
I cut one side, and then I cut the other side,
and I actually just fold it back and forth, and it gives you a nice, crisp edge.
The other way to do it, I don’t really like, but you can do it, is do the same thing again.
And you can basically fold it up, down, whichever way works best for you and take your snips.
And go in, which is not bad. It distorts it just a little bit.
But a lot of times, you know, I’ll see guys out there and they’ll turn the snips up
and cut it like that. And it just distorts the Z-Bar way too much.
So definitely wanna avoid cutting it like that, ’cause then you gotta take your hand and bend this part back.
Try to get it to its original form. It’s just easier to bend it back and forth
and it snaps right off for a clean edge. So what I did is I cut four pieces.
I just went ahead and did 10 inches, just so I have some play up there. So what we’ll do next,
we’ll go ahead and take these four pieces, go up on the roof, put some mastic tape on this backside
and start applying this. All right, so we’re back on the roof. Right now, what we’re gonna do,
we’re gonna mark out where the Z-Bar goes to make the diamond plate pattern.
What I’ve done is squared off of, use your square and find the center of the pipe
and then make a mark coming over. That way you know where dead center is.
‘Cause the last thing you wanna do is do all this work, put the Z-Bar down, the flat piece of metal down,
and it be too low or too high to where your pipe boot hangs past it. So you double-check that right now.
You can see that I’ve made a 45 coming off this rib.
And that’s gonna allow me to position my Z-Bar
where it needs to go. So right now you can see that
I need to go ahead and cut the bottom of this Z-Bar, right here.
Go ahead and cut that piece out and that’ll allow me to butt against the rib.
So we’ll go ahead and cut that. You know, if you cut a little bit more of an angle,
that’s fine. It doesn’t have to fit 100% flush.
So something like that. That’s closer, but as you can tell, you have a small gap right here where the rib comes up.
And what we’ll do for that is make a small cut going down into the Z-Bar at an angle.
Go ahead and get that out the way. Cut it again.
Scratch the roof. So that’s a little bit better. I think we’re gonna go with that.
And what you’re gonna wanna do is just line up to your marks that you made.
The pencil marks? That pencil mark is gonna go to the edge of the Z-Bar,
because what we want, when it’s said and done, is a nine-inch piece of metal coming across there.
Just depending on how big your pipe is. You know, if your pipe’s four or five inches, the box is gonna have to be bigger.
So we’ll go ahead and kind of dry fit these pieces. See what it looks like.
Like that. Yeah. – [Man] That’s a good fit.
– I still gotta put butyl tape on it. All right, so we have our pieces cut,
have everything laid out. I went ahead and mark the roof, I centered up the pipe.
What we’re gonna do from here is, you know, make sure all these pieces line up well.
I’m gonna go ahead and take my butyl tape, right here.
You got your piece, you just see where it lays. This is the piece that goes on top. It has a little bend to cover this edge.
So we’ll flip it over to the color side. Take you a couple strips of this butyl tape.
Apply it. I’m using the thin butyl tape today. Usually I only use the thin with pipe boots,
but you know, if you do this, just do the same, double it up.
Have it hanging past a little bit. Just get rid of your excess.
Go ahead and pull it. Try to pocket your trash.
Just fold that on around, you don’t need all that. So there you go.
Installation of Z-bar
You got your piece ready to install. I have my marks. All I’m gonna do is just line ’em right up.
Push it down. It’ll hold itself. We’ll go ahead and put a couple screws in that.
Typically, it’s three screws per piece of Z-Bar. Of course, this Z-Bar’s pretty short,
so I’ll probably only do two. Bring that down a pinch.
(power tool whirring) Drive ’em in tight. Just don’t overdo it.
You don’t wanna strip it out to where it doesn’t hold anymore. (power tool whirring)
Set this to the side. Then we have our other piece,
which is gonna sit. Just like that.
I’m gonna take off just a little bit, ’cause I want it to sit pretty tight on there.
Just gonna copy it real quick. Take another couple pieces.
Take that, get it out your way. Fold that in, fold that in.
Got your mastic tape ready. And we’re just gonna lock this piece on into here.
Get it nice and snug. You could see the pencil marks that I made here. That’ll keep you lined up, make sure it’s good and square.
And you have plenty of room to adjust, if you don’t like it. Every now and again, I’ll test it with my square, just to make sure it’s good.
And you could see it’s slightly off. It’s not bad at all.
So we’ll go ahead and go with that. And make sure that all your laps go downhill.
You know, never start at the top and work down. You need to start at the bottom, work up, ’cause you want this piece to overlap this piece.
Go ahead and put two in here. (power tool whirring)
All right. Now another important thing to do is to take your color match seam sealer.
And you’re gonna want a seam seal this edge right here, right where the Z-Bar meets the rib of the metal roof.
So we’re gonna get this caulk ready. And just go right on in there with it.
And just fill that void on in.
If you don’t have caulk for some reason, you can always take butyl tape. Kinda ball it up a little bit, like a piece of chewing gum,
and shove it in there with your fingers. Really push it in there.
The seam sealer makes it really easy to color match. So I just tend to stick with that.
But like I said, if you don’t have it and you’re out in the field, just pull out that butyl tape.
Just shove it in there like chewing gum. All right.
So right here and right here, I’m not gonna do anything there.
I don’t need to seam seal it. This mastic tape’s got it covered. Right here, I’m not gonna seal that.
And the reason I don’t seal the bottoms is if for any reason, somehow or another, a branch hits it,
you know, anything can happen. Water does get in, you know, maybe it comes in here,
maybe it comes into pipe somehow. It’ll come down and be able to run out of the Z-Bar
and down the metal roof. The last thing you wanna do is trap water ’cause that water can fill up and back up.
But hopefully this thing will never get hit by a branch and it won’t leak. So we’ll go ahead and go with it.
Now, the next thing to do is to do the exact same thing to the other side and that way we can make a full square.
One thing you wanna watch out for is where the old pipe boot was.
They have all these screws, mastic tape and all that around it.
Right now, what I’m gonna do is I’m slightly shifting the box. Well actually, just this piece,
over just a little bit, it’s not gonna hurt it one bit, but it’s gonna allow me to cover those screws
and have the mastic tape sandwich it down. So just be mindful if you have to do this.
You could have to shift the box, or one or two pieces of Z-Bar, to accommodate.
You know, even if it’s slightly outta square, you can always cut some of the Z-Bar off.
I mean, you could cut half of the top of the Z-Bar off, you know, if need be, at an angle,
and your piece will lock on just the same. So always keep that in mind if you need to adjust last minute.
Got this side done. Have this side cut out, have the mastic tape applied. I have my marks laid out.
I’m making sure that I cover underneath where those old holes are there.
Make sure you get that, cover it up good. Take a couple more, couple more screws.
(power tool whirring) Always give it a little kickstart.
Makes it easier running it in, ’cause, I mean, you can hold it and run like that all day. But if you give it a little,
little kick, it’ll go. Same thing, I have a little half-inch flange
that comes around the back. Mastic tape applied.
I’m gonna lock that right on in. Just like that.
Take your screws out.
(power tool whirring)
Make sure it’s lined up. (power tool whirring)
Go ahead and fill in. Get that seam sealer pushed into there real good.
This is a new caulk gun, so I’m kinda breaking it in. That’s why you see me squeezing it so many times.
Seems like I’m pushing a lot but I’m really not. Go ahead and rub that in real good.
Get it back in there.
You know, any excess, just take it and rub it on the inside.
That way you don’t get caulk all over the place. Rub it on your cushion.
Metal plate installation
All right. So the next part, we have our diamond plate installed.
Have it seam sealed, the butyl tape’s on it. We have two screws per piece.
The edge is folded over. Then you’re just gonna measure for your flat piece of metal,
which is looking like right at 11. You wanna check both sides.
This side is about a quarter, 3/8 of an inch longer. I want that piece of metal to be 11 by 11,
so what I’ll do is, since this side is a little bit past,
a little bit outta square, I’ll just take my snips
and remove about a quarter inch
from both sides.
Double-check it. And we have our 11. Same thing over here.
We’ll go with 11. Go with 11. And like I said, you got plenty of play with these.
You know, if you need to go up, down. You know, do what you need to do
to make sure all the edges are covered and sealed. But what we’re gonna do, we’re gonna go down to the ground.
We’re gonna cut a sheet of metal off. It needs to be 11 by 11,
but you also need to include about three-quarters of an inch on every side.
That way you have your piece of metal come down and it needs to lock around the Z-Bar.
So 11 by 11, plus three-quarters and three-quarters here will add an inch and a half.
So it’ll be 12 and a half by 12 and a half with three-quarters inches turned on every side.
So we’ll go down to the ground and go ahead and make that piece. All right, we’re down on the ground again.
I have a sheet of metal laid out. What we’re gonna do, we’re gonna cut out our piece of metal. It’s gonna be 12 and a half by 12 and a half.
I know when we were up there, you gotta add that inch and a half, that way we have three-quarter bend on each parts.
All right, so we’re gonna pull over our 12 and a half. Make a mark, pull up.
12 and a half. Make a mark. Take your framin’ square.
Line it up with that mark. Mark it on. Just like that.
Same thing with the other side.
Just like that. Double-check.
Yep, 12 and a half by 12 and a half. I’m gonna grab my big snips.
We’ll go ahead and get this piece cut.
Try to be easy on the metal. You don’t wanna get in there and start cutting
and have your snip sideways, or you know, bending it, tearing it up like that.
Try to find the sweet spot in your snips. That way that edge is nice and flush.
There’s no shark teeth, no burrs left over. And that way you get a nice, crisp cut through there.
It’s not gonna hurt you while you’re handling with your hands. We’re gonna mark three-quarters of an inch
all the way around the perimeter of this square, and that three-quarters of an inch will fold in.
But once we have it on the roof, you have to take your hands and finish the bend.
We’ll get to that in one second. Right now, I’m gonna go ahead and mark three-quarters of an inch on all sides.
What you can do is you can take your tape out,
mark it, mark it maybe just one time.
Take your finger, line it up with it. And you can do the whole thing this way.
Just keep your finger where it was.
Just like that. Now on this piece of metal, what you’re gonna wanna do is remove these corners
at just a slight angle. There’s one.
Two. Get this third one.
Just like that. And that’s gonna allow us to have these bands go inward
without hitting one another. I’m gonna put this in my break.
And I’m not gonna bend this all the way just yet. If I were to go up there and I had this bent all the way,
I could not get it over top of the Z-Bar. So I’m only gonna go at a 45 with these bends.
Just like that. And what that’ll allow me to do is to set it over top of the Z-Bar
and you take your hands and just pinch it shut. So we’ll go ahead and get all these turned up.
And you remember how I said to cut, make these cuts at an angle?
The reason why I do this at an angle is because you could see where it’s in the break right now.
If I did not cut this at an angle, when I bend this piece up. You’re good?
Watch. It’s not gonna hit and I’m gonna be able to get my bend.
True. Same thing again.
You wanna do all four sides.
And then the last one.
And there you have four sides bent in. And that’s about as far I would go for now.
And when you get up there, you’ll just dry fit it, mark it, cut this out and we’ll set it on top and lock it in.
So we’ll get back on the roof and get to it. So, all right, we’re back on the roof. I have my flat piece of metal.
I have the bends in it ready to go. I’m gonna set this down for now
and I’m gonna take a measurement of what it is from different sides and transfer that measurement to my metal.
So right here, you wanna have a little bit of space between the metal and the pipe. So I’m gonna go about four
to about seven and a quarter inches. So I’ll transfer that mark here.
Four to seven inches. And then measure at the opposite way, coming from the top, which would be three and a quarter
to about six and a quarter. So we’ll go ahead and transfer that over as well.
So what we’ll do is we’ll line our marks up.
Just kind of make a circle there. And you can either pre-drill this with a screw,
make a small hole and do it. Everybody’s kinda different.
I usually just take my piece and just hold it right there.
And you know, maybe. Yeah, but I just pop a hole in it real quick, like.
That’ll give you a starting point.
Just follow your marks going around.
We’ll make sure we have enough play in there. You could take your piece,
just kinda dry fit it. Make sure it fits on there.
You might have to do some finagling here and there, but so far, so good there.
Let me pull it off for now, just so you could see it.
We got the top seam sealed. We have our mastic tape fully installed,
going all the way around it. I don’t have seam sealer here at the bottom. Like I said, if water, for some reason, ever does get in,
it can easily track out. So we wanna make sure that this pipe is a little bit off-center
with the Z-Bar just slightly off. So just make sure you’re facing it the proper way.
Take your piece, slide it right on over.
Make sure you got your Z-Bar tucked into it. And take your hands and squeeze this thing on shut.
One thing that does happen, when you’re doing this, is
this piece, that half inch, that we folded down is gonna touch the rib.
It might scratch it just a taste.
As soon as you get that flat, it’ll lay down.
And then we’ll work our way on around. You could see I have this shut. I have this shut on the back.
And then I’m gonna take my hands and shut this part.
You can see where it’s hitting the rib and making it stand up. But as soon as we flatten that out and get it hem shut,
it should lay pretty good.
All right, take your tongs, after you’ve shut this as much as you can with your hand.
Put your tongs on it and just lock it down. And you’ll watch it lay down.
The more I crimp this down, the flusher it’ll get to the rib.
You’re gonna have a little bit of tool marks. Completely normal.
I wouldn’t worry about it.
One more side.
Just like that. You got your piece locked on good and tight. It’s not going anywhere.
Metal pipe boot installation
You’re gonna take your boot. Just kinda dry fit it where you need it.
That’ll let you know where to cut it. As you can tell, it’s gonna be right here at the top.
Just take your piece and slide it right over. So at least we know where to cut it off at.
So we’ll go ahead and do that.
I either take a straight blade or a pair of snips
and just pull this center on out.
Start small and then get bigger. You just never know.
Now, I’ll probably have to take out a little bit more, but yeah, you could see I need to take just a little bit more to get it fitting.
So I’ll probably just take this top line out.
Just like that. Try that out.
Perfect. Go ahead and dry fit your piece. Kinda let it settle down.
Take a pencil, mark around it. That way when you have the mastic tape on it
and you stick it, you can always, you know exactly where to set it with a mastic tape on it.
We’ll take our tape. We’re gonna go right around this.
Right around this boot. You can see those little grooves. The mastic tape just kinda wicks into those.
And then, of course, you’re gonna screw this off every inch.
Just kinda guide it right on around.
Something like this. You know, one-inch mastic tape should be fine. This is a narrow tape,
but all works the same. Just depends on what you like.
As long as you have something in there.
And pull your pieces off.
Always try to hide the sticker. There’s always a sticker on these and you can hardly ever get it fully off.
So I try to face it up the roof if it doesn’t come off.
All right, make sure your ring’s sitting good. There’s
no buckles in the pipe boot itself. It’s sitting pretty good.
So what we’ll do is we’ll go ahead and screw this thing off.
You don’t wanna start at one spot and then work your way around.
You wanna start either at the top, the bottom, side to side.
Put one at the bottom.
(power tool whirring) One at the top.
And then one on each side. And that’ll keep this piece from moving.
(power tool whirring)
Oh, buck on my tape. Oh man. All right, so when I ran in that third screw,
it caught my mastic tape and spun it around and around
and pulled it away from the flange. So what I’ll do now, let’s take another piece
and tie in to the existing and just follow the marks
that I have laid out where the pipe should go and break it off.
Push that back in. And we’ll do it all over again.
Just do it again.
(power tool whirring) All right, I’ll go back to the other side.
Hopefully she won’t buckle on me. (power tool whirring)
Just like that. And you gotta go every single inch,
every inch away from every screw. Manufacturer says that you have to do that.
I really don’t know why, but gotta do what they ask.
So I just go through and just keep doing centers. I go to the center of each one,
each screw, and just work my way in. (power tool whirring)
We have our pipe screwed off every inch or so. I’m gonna run a bead of caulk seam sealer from right here,
all the way around to the other side. I’m not gonna seam seal the bottom half.
So like I said before, if water does get in, we wanna weigh out. So I’ll just go ahead and start running this bead.
Start at the top, work my way around.
I want a decent bead. You wanna fill in the void and be able to tool that in.
Just like that. Come back to the other side, do it again.
Just like that. Take your finger, tool it in real good.
Make sure you’re pushing it into the boot between the metal. Nice, smooth bead in there.
There you go. And then the other part to do, I’m gonna stand up for this,
is run a bead going around the boot itself.
Just like that. And don’t forget to tool it in real good.
Always wanna tool the caulk in.
You’re hardly ever gonna get these exactly centered.
Like right now it bothers me that that diamond can go up a little bit,
but it’s not a big deal at all. You know, what you’re worrying about is it looking good,
and then, especially being water tight. Just make sure your Z-Bar’s sealed really good.
If you don’t seal that Z-Bar and put mastic tape in there, it will leak. So just make sure after you get that Z-Bar laid,
that you seam seal any cracks, crevices. Anywhere where it meets the ribs, seal that.
And yeah, that’s about all you gotta do.
All right, so this pipe is closer to the right side, but what you cannot do is have
like the Z-Bar come past and then down, you know what I mean?
Like what if, say, this piece of Z-Bar needed to come up,
like up here somewhere, just to get it exact.
I don’t know if you could see that pencil mark right there or not, but say you had another piece coming down like that.
You’re gonna have to shift the diamond plate to get it to where there’s no small piece
of Z-Bar right here, ’cause if water comes down, it’ll sit in that small piece.
That’s why you have to shift and alter to get your diamond plate, get your Z-Bar against this rib and then come down.
Something to keep in mind. But yeah, you’re gonna have to shift it.
It’s not always gonna be exact center. If it’s done right, it won’t leak.
It’ll last the homeowners a long time. All right, another way to mark out for Z-Bar.
If you take that piece, like we made for the other side, the flat piece of metal,
you can cut the center out and take your pencil,
lay it down over the pipe and just kinda line up your corners to the rib.
Take your pencil and outline where your Z-bar will go.
It’s a little bit faster method. It works really well if your pipe is in the exact center of the rib.
This one is. The other one was offset. So we did ’em a little bit different.
So I’ll pull this and then you’ll have your line all the way around it to where the edge of your Z-Bar goes.
And that’s just another way to find center and make sure that your pipe boot
will fit symmetrically around it.